{"title":"Hochglanzpolituren (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eHochglanzpolituren (Finish)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHochglanzpolituren (Finish)\u003c\/strong\u003e: Finishpolituren reduzieren feine Spuren und klären den Lackglanz. Ihr geringer Abtrag ist auf ein klares Finish ausgerichtet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad, saubere Arbeitsmedien und die Kontrolle unter passendem Licht sind entscheidend; tiefe Defekte verlangen eine andere Korrekturstufe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/anti-hologramm-polituren\"\u003eAnti-Hologramm-Polituren\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/coating-primer\"\u003eCoating-Primer\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/hochglanzpolituren-kanister\"\u003eHochglanzpolituren im Kanister\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"koch-chemie-micro-cut-m2-02-hochglanz-antihologramm-politur","title":"Micro Cut \"M2.02\" High-Gloss Anti-Hologram Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut M2.02 — High-Gloss Anti-Hologram Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut M2.02\u003c\/strong\u003e is a high-end polish built to \u003cstrong\u003eget rid of holograms for good\u003c\/strong\u003e, along with buffer trails and fine scratches from a 4,000 grit upward. It works on every paint type, hard clear coats included, and its \u003cstrong\u003eultra-homogeneous abrasives\u003c\/strong\u003e lay down a brilliant, long-lasting high-gloss finish — even on dark, finicky colours. The best part: it's \u003cstrong\u003esilicone-oil-free\u003c\/strong\u003e, goes a long way, and is easy to work — residue wipes off without a fight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRemoves holograms\u003c\/strong\u003e: gives you a clean, hologram-free gloss on dark paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-oil-free\u003c\/strong\u003e: leaves no unwanted residue behind on the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use\u003c\/strong\u003e: works fast and wipes off easily, no polish leftovers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCuts through holograms and scratches\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut M2.02\u003c\/strong\u003e is built specifically to pull \u003cstrong\u003ethe finest scratches and holograms\u003c\/strong\u003e out of sensitive paint. It's spot-on after coarser cutting steps, or as your last polishing step for a \u003cstrong\u003ebrilliant high-gloss\u003c\/strong\u003e. Thanks to the clever abrasive tech the surface comes out perfectly levelled, so it shines even under harsh lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePerfect for dark paint and sensitive surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne of the M2.02's biggest strengths is how well it handles \u003cstrong\u003edark paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Dark colours often show buffer trails and holograms much more. With this product you can \u003cstrong\u003eknock those flaws out mechanically\u003c\/strong\u003e, leaving a deep, even high-gloss finish.\u003cspan class=\"whitespace-nowrap text-token-text-secondary dark:text-token-text-tertiary\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow you use it, and how far it goes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's dead simple to \u003cstrong\u003euse\u003c\/strong\u003e: lay it down with a dual-action polisher and the matching \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut Pad\u003c\/strong\u003e. Spread the polish evenly across the panel, then work it in with medium pressure in a cross-hatch pattern. 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That's what makes it so efficient and easy to work with, and it leaves nothing behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOutstanding cut:\u003c\/strong\u003e removes fine scratches down to 3000-grit on every paint type.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGloss that holds:\u003c\/strong\u003e the fine, specialised abrasives lay down a brilliant high-gloss finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use:\u003c\/strong\u003e the polish wipes off effortlessly and leaves no residue.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSpot-on results on every paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut M3.02\u003c\/strong\u003e works on all paint types, scratch-resistant clearcoats included. Whether you're chasing out light holograms or deep polishing haze, this polish gets you flawless results. On dark, sensitive colours especially it pulls an even, deep-gloss look. Thanks to its fine abrasives it doesn't put new scratches in, and it'll deliver on even the trickiest paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eQuick and easy to work\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best results, run the polish with a dual-action machine and Koch-Chemie's \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut Pad\u003c\/strong\u003e. Take the machine up to its top speed to get the full effect of the abrasive polish. A rotary will do the job too. The key thing: wet the pad through before you start, so the polish spreads evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMaximum gloss, zero residue\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut M3.02\u003c\/strong\u003e leaves no unwanted polish film on the paint. The aluminium oxide in the polish breaks down completely as you work, so you end up with a clear, transparent finish. 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The silica particles in \u003cstrong\u003eCarPro Essence\u003c\/strong\u003e keep the paint extra slick while you work, so you avoid putting scratches in. That gets you a hologram-free finish you can hit either by hand or on the machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSemi-permanent fillers for perfect results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe semi-permanent fillers in \u003cstrong\u003eCarPro Essence\u003c\/strong\u003e cover the finest swirls and do a lot to get you that perfect high-gloss finish. More often than not these fillers make heavy machine sessions unnecessary, which simplifies the whole job and still gets you top-shelf results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eVersatile ways to use it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand, on a dual-action or on a rotary \u0026ndash; \u003cstrong\u003eCarPro Essence\u003c\/strong\u003e handles every method. It is easy to work with and sips product, which makes it a must-have for anyone who is fussy about their paint. 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This ultra-fine polish works on every type of polisher and pulls out maximum optical clarity and reflection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks with everything:\u003c\/strong\u003e compatible with all BigFoot polishing systems.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use:\u003c\/strong\u003e wipes off clean and leaves no fillers behind.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTop results:\u003c\/strong\u003e perfect for soft, sensitive paints.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWorks on any machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRun the \u003cstrong\u003eRupes \"Uno Pure\" polish\u003c\/strong\u003e on rotary, dual-action or forced-rotation machines. The formula lays down a streak-free finish that's made for show cars and dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSerious finishing quality\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThanks to its up-to-date abrasive tech, \u003cstrong\u003eUno Pure\u003c\/strong\u003e gives you finishing quality that's hard to beat. Even on the fussiest paints it delivers standout results, and it handles every paint type.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eA mirror finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith \u003cstrong\u003eUno Pure\u003c\/strong\u003e you get a dead-flat, mirror-like surface. 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This fine high-gloss finishing polish pulls out the last holograms and buffer trails, brings up a mirror-like clear-coat shine and gets the paint ready for sealants and ceramic coatings — perfect as the final polishing step after abrasive correction stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a multi-stage polishing job, the finishing polish is the real test of skill: it comes after the cutting polish and the medium correction polish, and its job is to clear out the last fine holograms, buffer trails and micro-scratches completely — leaving the clear coat with the kind of depth, clarity and reflection that sells a fresh detail. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro high-gloss finishing polish for exactly this last step: very fine cut, low haze, and a gloss that sets the paint up perfectly for sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUltra-fine cut for hologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 carries very finely milled abrasives that level the buffer trails left by cutting and medium polishes without laying down fresh scratches of their own. What you get is a paint surface with maximum reflection and minimal orange peel — the base for that mirror-deep gloss a freshly detailed car is meant to throw back at you.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBalanced viscosity for machine and hand work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 is mixed so it runs on rotary and dual-action machines just as well as by hand on small panels. The viscosity lets it spread evenly across the pad, keeps it from slinging during machine work and stops it drying out too fast — which really matters on bigger panels, where you need to keep the working time consistent.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal as a pre-coating step before sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e A finishing polish before you seal isn't optional if maximum sealant durability and top gloss are the goal. The NP 03-06 leaves no protective film and no waxy fillers — once it's done, the clear coat is ready for the degrease step and the sealant, with no abrasive residue getting in the way of coating adhesion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 gives its best with a finishing foam pad on a dual-action machine — speed 3–4 (depending on the model), slow, overlapping passes. For the last pass, drop the speed to 2–3 to keep heat down and even the result out. Dose the polish sparingly: a small amount on the pad, spread it by working it in slowly by hand, then switch the machine on. After polishing, buff the area off with a clean microfibre and check for holograms straight away — under raking light (side light) you'll spot any leftover buffer trails most clearly. Once that check passes, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e follows as the degrease step before sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology: how the NP 03-06 high-gloss finishing polish clears holograms\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA finishing polish works by mechanical micro-abrasion: the finely milled abrasives in the high-gloss polish cut the clear-coat surface at micrometre level, smoothing out the grooves and scratch marks left by earlier polishing stages and creating a surface that's as flat and uniform as possible. Light hitting a flat surface bounces back evenly — that's the physics behind the so-called depth gloss and the mirror reflection you see after a successful finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cut of the NP 03-06 is pitched just right for the final polishing stage: fine enough not to lay down new holograms, but still strong enough to clear out the buffer trails from the preceding medium correction polish completely. That balancing act is typical of finishing polishes — too fine a cut won't fully remove buffer trails, too coarse a cut creates holograms of its own that need another finishing pass to fix. The NP 03-06 carries the \"03-06\" in its name, which marks where it sits in the SONAX polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother upside of finishing-polish technology is what detailers call \"darkening\" — on dark paint (black, dark blue, dark grey) a noticeably deeper colour comes up after the finishing polish, because the surface is so flat and clear that more light gets into the paint and reflects back. The effect is less dramatic on light colours, but still clearly there: the paint looks fresher, livelier and more even than before. On cars with black or dark paint especially, the finishing polish is the most visible step in the whole detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the NP 03-06 right — pad, machine and technique for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finishing polish assumes the prep is fully done: dirt, fallout and tar removed (decon step), the paint prepped with a correction polish, and the surface clean and dry. A finishing polish on an unprepped, heavily scratched surface can't clear the fine scratches completely — the step only pays off when the stages before it were done right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: for machine work, finishing foam pads (soft, no cut of their own) carry the polish's fine abrasives evenly onto the surface without adding any cut. Hard foam pads or microfibre pads with their own cut aren't ideal for a pure finishing polish — the NP 03-06 is built for soft finishing pads. For hand work, use a soft, clean applicator — on small areas (headlights, small dent zones) the polish works well by hand too, but on large panels machine work is a must for an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique: lay the polish down, spread it at the lowest speed, then run several overlapping passes across the panel at medium speed. The last pass goes at a slightly reduced speed and light pressure — this final pass levels the faint cross-marks the polishing leaves behind. Watch the dry-down: if the polish flashes off too fast (in the sun, on hot paint) it won't work properly — ideally polish in the garage or in the shade. After buffing off with microfibre, check for holograms straight away — any leftover buffer trails show up best under side-on artificial light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the NP 03-06 fits — when a finishing polish is the right step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe NP 03-06 is the final polishing step before any sealant or ceramic coating. You reach for it when there are still fine buffer trails or holograms left after the correction polish that need clearing before you seal. Typically the NP 03-06 is step 3 or 4 in a multi-stage polishing job: after the cutting polish (hard pad + cutting compound) and the correction polish (medium pad + medium polish) comes the finishing polish as the last abrasive step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars that don't need heavy correction (nearly new paint, or paint with very fine swirl marks only visible at an angle), the NP 03-06 can also run as the only polishing stage — a so-called \"one-step finish\". Here you pair a lightly cutting pad (combo pad) with the finishing polish to knock back light swirl marks and bring up maximum gloss in one go. That approach saves time, but it isn't enough for deeper scratches and heavier holograms — there a multi-stage process with a proper correction polish is unavoidable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn delicate cars with a thin clear coat (often older cars after several previous-owner polishes, or certain makes like Porsche and some BMW models) the finishing polish is especially valuable, because it gets by with minimal paint removal — the light cut clears only the buffer trails, without taking off more clear coat than needed. Paint-depth readings before the job help judge how many polishing passes still make sense without thinning the clear coat too far.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNP 03-06 vs. PerfectFinish — which finishing polish for which job?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has two finishing polishes for different demands. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e sits as the more aggressive finishing polish with a slightly higher cut — it's built especially for use after P2000 sandpaper (hence the \"up to P2000\" tag) and suits situations where a bit more cut is needed after sanding to clear the sanding marks completely. The NP 03-06, by contrast, is the finer finishing polish for the last step after the polishing correction stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice: if you're polishing after wet sanding (e.g. after removing a deep dent or a respray), you pick the PerfectFinish as the first polishing step and optionally the NP 03-06 as the final hologram removal. If you've worked a normal detail without sanding using a correction polish, you only need the NP 03-06 for the finish step. For detailers who want both scenarios covered day-to-day, having both polishes on hand makes sense — the PerfectFinish for sanding-heavy work, the NP 03-06 for pure high-gloss finish steps after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn pad compatibility and machine suitability the two finishing polishes are similar — the call comes down mainly to the cut you want and the prep stage before it. For maximum flexibility in a pro setup we recommend keeping both polishes available, since the exact state of a car often only becomes clear on the lift and under correction lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 — bottle sizes and value\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three sizes: 250 ml for beginners and occasional use, 1 litre for regular detailers and pro detailing businesses, and 5 litres for high-throughput operations or for training sessions. The price per millilitre drops noticeably with the bigger bottle — for businesses polishing several cars a week, the 1-litre or 5-litre size is the most economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer application on an average car (saloon or compact) you'll use about 15–30 ml of polish, depending on the number of passes and the pad size. The 1-litre bottle covers around 30–60 full car polishes that way — excellent value for regular use. The 250-ml bottle suits beginners who want to get to know the polish first, or special jobs on small areas (bonnet, roof, single panels after a spot repair).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete finish workflow we recommend: NP 03-06 (high-gloss finishing polish) → \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e (degrease\/panel wipe) → \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a ceramic coating. This three-step finishing workflow makes sure the paint glosses to the max after the detail, is fully degreased and stays protected long-term under a quality sealant — the standard for professional detailing results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506699362639,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506660401487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000","price":38.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506660499791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2085000","price":95.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699395407,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699428175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x set van 1 liter","offer_id":53506660434255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_2","price":76.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660467023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_3","price":115.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish.png?v=1730477476"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur","title":"PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free high-gloss finish with the SONAX EX 04-06 polish for dual-action machines\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 04-06 do? A finishing polish with cut level 4 and gloss level 6 — built specifically for dual-action machines, it pulls out light paint defects and lays down a hologram-free high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDual-action machines are the go-to for a lot of detailers because they're safer to handle than rotaries — less heat build-up, less risk of holograms, less chance of burning through the clear coat. The catch: not every polish is built for the dual-action motion. Plenty of polishes that work brilliantly on the rotary only deliver a fraction of their power on a DA, because the lower heat slows the abrasive breakdown. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed specifically for this machine type: its abrasive blend breaks down reliably even at the lower friction energy of a dual-action machine, and with a cut of 4\/5 and a gloss of 6\/5 it gets you a result on the DA that's almost identical to a two-step process of cutting and finishing polish on the rotary. If you work with a dual-action machine and want to correct light to medium paint defects, the EX 04-06 is the obvious pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formulation of the EX 04-06 is tuned to the specific kinematics of dual-action machines. The abrasive particles break down at lower temperature and lower pressure than with classic rotary polishes — meaning you get the full power on the DA without having to lean in. That behaviour makes the EX 04-06 especially beginner-friendly: even without years of polishing experience, moderate pressure and a mid-range speed get you a professional result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gloss level of 6\/5 — the top mark in the SONAX system — means the polish leaves a finish that's free of holograms, swirls and buffer marks. On dark paint, where every defect shows up straight away, this is the point that matters. The EX 04-06 produces a result on black or dark-blue paint that stays flawless even under direct sunlight and LED inspection light.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and bodyshop-safe.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all SONAX PROFILINE polishes, the EX 04-06 is silicone-free. In bodyshops that polish and paint side by side, that's a must — silicone residue on neighbouring vehicles or shop surfaces can cause craters during a respray. Being silicone-free also makes the EX 04-06 a first choice for prep ahead of a ceramic coating, where an absolutely silicone-free surface gives the best bonding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the EX 04-06 with a medium foam pad (orange in the SONAX colour system) at speed 4 to 5 on the dual-action machine. Drop three pea-sized dabs onto the pad, spread them at low speed and then work with moderate pressure in slow, overlapping passes. The key to a perfect result: slow machine movement. Move the machine about two to three centimetres per second across the surface — noticeably slower than most beginners do it by instinct. That's the only way the abrasives get enough contact time to fully cut out the defects and bring up the high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish for dual-action machines — why the EX range is formulated differently from rotary polishes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the EX range, which SONAX developed specifically for dual-action machines. The technical background: a dual-action machine moves the pad on a circular orbit with a simultaneous rotation — this double motion generates less friction energy per unit of area than the pure rotation of a rotary machine. Polishes built for the rotary need that higher energy to break their abrasives down fully. On a dual-action machine they only break down partway — the result is coarse leftover particles that leave micro-marring and holograms instead of bringing up gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX range solves this with an adapted particle size and binder matrix. The abrasives are smaller and break down at lower energy input — perfect for the dual-action motion. The flip side: on a rotary the abrasive breaks down too fast, and the polish loses its cut before the defects are fully removed. So the EX 04-06 is no replacement for rotary polishes like the CutMax or Cut+Finish — it's their counterpart for a different class of machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, the difference shows up most on hard European clear coats, which are tougher to work with the dual-action machine than soft Japanese paints. On these clears the EX 04-06 gives enough working time and cut to keep performing consistently even after several polishing passes — something cheaper DA polishes often can't manage, because their formulation is spent after the first pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne practical angle: plenty of detailers own both a dual-action and a rotary machine and switch depending on the panel. On big, flat areas like the bonnet and roof the rotary is more efficient, while on edges, body lines and curved sections the dual-action machine gives you more safety margin. In that mixed workflow the EX 04-06 is the finishing product for all the dual-action sections — while a polish like the Cut+Finish or PerfectFinish handles the rotary sections. If you want to stick with a single machine and prefer the dual-action, the EX range gives you a complete system that asks for no compromise on performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use a dual-action polish properly — speed, pressure and machine movement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e on the dual-action machine follows a clear scheme: a medium to soft polishing pad, a mid-range speed (step 4 to 5 on most machines), moderate pressure and slow machine movement. That combination is the key to a hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrop three pea-sized dabs of polish onto the pad and spread them at the lowest speed across the panel. Then step up to working speed and polish in slow, overlapping passes across the whole section. Slow here means: two to three centimetres per second. Most beginners move the machine too fast — the pad glides over the surface without enough time to cut the defects out. A slower movement increases the contact time per unit of area and uses the abrasive fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epressure\u003c\/strong\u003e should be moderate — just enough that the pad sits evenly on the surface. Unlike the rotary, where more pressure means more cut, the dual-action machine reacts to excess pressure in reverse: the dual-action motion gets choked, the pad spins slower, and the cut drops instead of climbing. If you notice the machine bogging down under pressure, you're leaning in too hard — back off and let the machine do the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake: too much polish on the pad. Three pea-sized dabs are enough for a section of about fifty by fifty centimetres — more product dilutes the cut and stretches the working time without improving the result. If the polish is still sitting milky-thick on the surface after the pass, you've either laid on too much or moved the machine too fast. Cut the amount on the next section and move the machine slower — the result picks up straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn temperature: the dual-action machine generates less heat than a rotary, but on dark paint in summer sun the surface temperature can still get problematic. Work in a shaded spot or garage and check the temperature now and then with the back of your hand. Ideal ambient temperatures are between fifteen and twenty-five degrees Celsius at moderate humidity, to keep working conditions optimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the polishing pass, wipe the residue off with a clean, soft microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED inspection lamp. On dark paint it's worth an extra check under direct sunlight — some holograms and swirls only show up under natural light, because the LED lamp hits at a different angle. Once you're happy with the result, comes the degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — only then do you see the actual result without polishing oils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting light to medium paint defects — the ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't built for heavy defect correction — for that there's the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05 with cut 5\/5\u003c\/a\u003e. The strength of the EX 04-06 sits in a different area: correcting light to medium defects in a single pass while producing the best possible finish at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common use case is the \u003cstrong\u003esingle-stage polish on near-new paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Vehicles one to three years old typically show wash marring, light swirls and a general dullness in the clear coat. The EX 04-06 removes these surface defects in one pass and leaves a high gloss that sits above factory-new level. For detailers who regularly work on lease returns or young used cars, that's the typical job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario: \u003cstrong\u003efinishing after a cutting stage\u003c\/strong\u003e. When the paint has first been worked with a cutting polish (the EX 05-05, say, or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e), the EX 04-06 removes the leftover micro-marring and holograms in the second step and brings the paint to a high gloss. This two-step process — cutting polish plus finishing polish — is the gold standard in professional paint correction and gets you the best results on demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 04-06 is also ideal for \u003cstrong\u003eprep ahead of a coating\u003c\/strong\u003e. Before a ceramic coating or paint protection film goes on, the paint has to be in the best possible condition — any defect locked in under the coating stays visible for its entire service life. The EX 04-06 gives you exactly the surface a coating needs: defect-free, hologram-free and free of silicone residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne scenario that often gets underrated: \u003cstrong\u003eworking on vehicles with part-wrapped sections\u003c\/strong\u003e. When a vehicle has both painted and wrapped panels, the polish must not get onto the film — polishing residue can settle into the film texture and is hard to get out of there. The controlled way the dual-action machine works, combined with the EX 04-06, minimises the risk of splatter and lets you work precisely right up to the film edge. For these situations the dual-action machine clearly beats the rotary, because it slings off less product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDual-action polish comparison — EX 04-06 vs. EX 05-05 vs. NP 03-06\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range offers three finishing polishes to choose from, differing in cut and gloss:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is the more aggressive sibling: cut 5\/5, gloss 5\/5. It comes in when the defects are too deep for the EX 04-06 — things like P1500 sanding marks, heavier weathering or scratches that go beyond the typical wash marring. The gloss level of 5\/5 is good, but not at the level of the EX 04-06 — for the highest finishing standards, a pass with the EX 04-06 follows the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the gentlest option: cut 3\/5, gloss 6\/5. It's meant for paint that barely shows any defects and just needs that final polishing touch — after a thorough cutting stage, say, or on new cars that only need a light refresh. The lower cut also makes it the safest pick on extremely thin clear coats or historic paint, where every bit of material removal should be kept to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the all-rounder between these extremes: enough cut for typical everyday defects, maximum gloss for a professional finish. For most single-stage polishes on the dual-action machine it's the best choice — versatile enough for day-to-day work, strong enough on the finishing side for demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the EX 04-06 — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle polishes — product use on the dual-action machine is moderate, because the polish works efficiently and needs few reloads. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops and keen private users who polish regularly. With the value combo you save on top of buying single — especially for detailers who run the EX 04-06 as their standard finishing polish, the stock pack pays off fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow on the dual-action machine we recommend: on light defects, the EX 04-06 as a single-step solution on a medium pad. On medium defects, first the EX 05-05 on a hard pad, then the EX 04-06 on a soft pad for the finish. After that, degrease with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e and, if needed, seal with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003ePolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a CeramicCoating of your choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the EX 04-06 tends to separate slightly when left standing for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use, until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen polish loses its abrasive structure and won't go on evenly after that, and should be thrown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners stuck between the EX 04-06 and a rotary polish, the recommendation is clear: if you've got no machine-polishing experience yet, start with the dual-action machine and the EX 04-06. The combination is far more forgiving than a rotary with an aggressive cutting polish. You can learn the technique calmly, without fear of burn-throughs or holograms. The result might not quite reach what an experienced polisher gets on the rotary — but it'll be solid, safe and more than enough for the vast majority of needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520265773391,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520265806159,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000","price":37.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265871695,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265904463,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 liter set","offer_id":53520265937231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_2","price":74.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 liter set","offer_id":53520265969999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_3","price":112.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur.png?v=1730648016"},{"product_id":"flex-finish-politur-pcf-2-step","title":"Finish Polish \"PC-F\" 2-Step (Cut 2 \/ Gloss 5)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFLEX Finish Polish PC-F – high-gloss finish for the perfect second step of your paint correction\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe FLEX Finish Polish PC-F is a fine high-gloss polish for step two of the 2-Step system. It clears light polishing marks and holograms, maxes out paint gloss and leaves a clear, deep finish on modern automotive paint.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFLEX Finish Polish PC-F\u003c\/strong\u003e is the final stage of a professional paint correction. Once the first polishing step has pulled out scratches and heavier defects, this finely tuned finish polish brings maximum clarity, depth and mirror gloss to the paint. With Cut 2 for abrasive power and a gloss rating of 5, it is built to refine the very last polishing marks and visibly perfect the finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing, the last polishing step often decides how the whole job reads. Only a proper finish polish brings out the full brilliance of the paint. The surface gets smoother still, light reflects more evenly, and the paint looks noticeably clearer and deeper. That is exactly why a finish polish is the make-or-break part of a good 2-Step polishing system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum depth of gloss for a flawless paint finish\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFinely tuned abrasives refine the paint surface and leave a clear, high-gloss finish. Reflections look sharper and colours come across far more intense.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eClears holograms and fine polishing marks\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eA cut polish can leave light polishing marks behind. The finish polish smooths those structures out and gets you an even, hologram-free paint surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe perfect second step in the 2-Step polishing system\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAs step 2 after a cut polish, the PC-F dials in the result and lifts the optical quality of the paint to a much higher level.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFinish polish for high gloss, clarity and hologram-free paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003efinish polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the step that decides it when you are after maximum optical perfection. A cut polish mainly pulls out scratches, while a finish polish concentrates on refining the surface. That is where the FLEX PC-F plays its strength: extremely fine abrasives that smooth out the smallest polishing marks and refine the paint structure even further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat you get is a surface that reflects light really evenly. That is where the high-gloss look you know from professional detailing work comes from. Reflections come across cleaner, colours run deeper, and the paint simply reads a class above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn dark colours the difference jumps out. Black or very dark paint picks up even the finest polishing marks. A good finish polish evens the surface out completely here, so the paint stays uniform and hologram-free under direct light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDual action polisher and soft pads for a proper refinement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou get the best out of it with a \u003cstrong\u003edual action polisher\u003c\/strong\u003e and soft or medium-soft finishing pads. That combination keeps mechanical stress on the paint low and still lets you refine the surface precisely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA cut polish is usually run on firmer pads, while a finish polish works with much softer foam. Cutting action drops back in a controlled way and the whole focus shifts to refining the finish. On sensitive or dark paint especially, this combo gives you an even result with no visible polishing marks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish, spread the product evenly across the pad and work it at moderate speed. Its fine structure lets you work the PC-F out under control, and that is what gives you a very clear, even finish. Once you are done, the polishing film wipes off easily with a good microfibre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing this step usually comes right before a paint protection system goes on. Ceramic coating, paint sealant or premium wax – a perfectly polished surface is what lets protection products bond properly and show their full optical effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e2-Step polishing system for maximum paint refinement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e2-Step polishing system\u003c\/strong\u003e is one of the most popular methods in professional paint correction. The polishing job is split into two clearly defined steps: defect correction first with a strong cut polish, then the paint is refined with a finish polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis two-stage approach gets you noticeably better results than a straight one-step. The first step knocks back scratches and defects, the second focuses purely on optical refinement. What comes out is a very clear finish with an intense mirror effect and a lot of colour depth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FLEX Finish Polish PC-F was developed for exactly that second step. It refines the paint you have already corrected, clears the finest polishing marks and maxes out the gloss. That is when the full potential of the paint correction shows – with a deep, clear finish that stays even and high-end even under harsh light.\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"FLEX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57225967567183,"sku":"D1-FLEX-532417","price":14.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57225967599951,"sku":"D1-FLEX-532416","price":55.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/flex-finish-politur-pcf-2-step.png?v=1773354066"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2-primer-finishing-politur-sio2-coating-primer","title":"Q² Primer Finishing Polish \u0026 SiO² Coating Primer","description":"\u003ch2\u003eThe perfect finish before the coating – GYEON Q² Primer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q² Primer? GYEON Q² Primer is a high-grade finishing paint polish with a built-in SiO₂ coating primer – it takes the paint to full gloss after correction and, in the same pass, chemically preps the surface so the ceramic coating that follows bonds the way it should.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q² Primer\u003c\/strong\u003e closes the gap between paint polishing and ceramic coating. As the last polishing step before you coat, Q² Primer does two jobs at once: it pulls out the micro-swirls and polish residue left by the previous pass, and at the same time it lays SiO₂ compounds into the paint surface that act as a bonding agent for the ceramic coating to come. What you end up with is a surface prepped twice over – flawless gloss, and chemically ready to bond with the GYEON Q² coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFinishing polish and coating primer in one bottle.\u003c\/strong\u003e Two steps become one: Q² Primer finishes at the highest level and lays the chemical groundwork for coating adhesion at the same time. That saves you a step and makes sure the coating goes onto a properly prepped surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulls out the micro-swirls left by the previous polish step.\u003c\/strong\u003e After a medium cut or a polish pass there are usually very fine micro-marks still sitting in the surface. Q² Primer has enough cut to clear those last irregularities and bring up a flawless, deep gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe SiO₂ bonding agent measurably improves the coating bond.\u003c\/strong\u003e The built-in silicon dioxide compounds anchor into the opened-up paint structure and create bonding points for the ceramic coating that follows. That raises adhesion strength and can stretch out the service life of the coating.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e GYEON Q² Primer is the ideal last polishing step before you lay down the coating. Once you have polished, take the residue off completely and check the paint under an inspection light – then go straight to the coating, no second degrease. The SiO₂ compounds in the primer have already handled the surface activation for you. If you want to be sure, a light wipe with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e will activate the surface one more time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish + coating primer: the dual job explained\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrepping paint for a ceramic coating traditionally takes several steps: polish to the correction level you want, degrease with isopropanol, then lay the coating down. GYEON Q² Primer folds the IPA degreasing step into the polishing itself – while you work the product, the SiO₂ compounds in the primer bond to the freshly polished paint and leave a chemically active layer that takes the coating better. At the same time the abrasives in the primer are as fine as those in a finishing polish: they clear the last micro-marks without hurting the surface through excessive cut. What you have after Q² Primer is mirror-smooth, activated paint, ready for the coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use it: Q² Primer as the last step before the coating\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q² Primer goes on after every correction step (compound, polish) as the closing polishing pass. Spread a thin film on a finishing pad (DA or rotary) and work it in at moderate machine speed. The polish starts with light cut, and you feel the switch to the gloss stage under your hand (the polish turns more transparent). Once it is worked out, take the residue off with a clean microfibre. The paint is now ready for the coating – an extra degrease is normally not needed, because Q² Primer has already activated the surface. On a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-finish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003eQ²M Finish Pad\u003c\/a\u003e or a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003eQ²M Polish Pad\u003c\/a\u003e Q² Primer gives you its best results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCompatibility: which GYEON coatings benefit from Q² Primer?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q² Primer is built as prep for every Q² ceramic coating in the GYEON line: \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2-mohs-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eQ² Mohs EVO\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2-one-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eQ² One EVO\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2-pure-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eQ² Pure EVO\u003c\/a\u003e and the two-component \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2-syncro-evo-paint-coating-2-stufige-kerami\"\u003eQ² Syncro EVO\u003c\/a\u003e. The chemical surface activation Q² Primer leaves behind works with all of these systems and measurably improves adhesion. You can also use Q² Primer as prep for coating systems from other manufacturers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ² Primer vs. IPA degreasing: what are the differences?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe traditional route before a coating goes on is wiping the paint down with isopropanol (IPA) or a dedicated degreaser. IPA reliably pulls off oils and polish residue, but it leaves the surface chemically inert. GYEON Q² Primer goes one step further: it does not just remove residue (through the polishing pass), it also brings in SiO₂ compounds that work as an active bonding bridge for the coating. What you get is a surface optimised both chemically and mechanically for the coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho it is for: Q² Primer for the perfect coating setup\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q² Primer is for every pro detailer and car owner about to lay down a ceramic coating who will not compromise on the prep. As an optional add-on in the coating prep, Q² Primer turns the last step before the ceramic sealant into a double job: best possible finish, maximum coating adhesion. In a polishing set, Q² Primer rounds off \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e as the final link in the correction chain.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"4 fl. oz.","offer_id":57335238394191,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2PRIMER120","price":15.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57335242326351,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2PRIMER1000","price":79.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2-primer-finishing-politur-sio2-coating-primer.png?v=1774644040"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur","title":"Q²M Polish Finishing Paint Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eThe final gloss – GYEON Q²M Polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q²M Polish? GYEON Q²M Polish is a finishing paint polish for the very last polishing stage – it clears the fine holograms and buffer marring left by the correction step and pulls the maximum depth of gloss out of the paint, for a hologram-free, mirror-clear finish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnce you have corrected the defects with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-plus-redefined-heavy-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound+\u003c\/a\u003e, the paint is defect-free but not yet perfect: fine buffer marring and holograms from the correction step are still on there and they have to go. \u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q²M Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly that – a finishing polish with ultra-fine abrasives that clear those last traces completely and pull the maximum depth of gloss out at the same time. The result is a surface where every detail of the paint shows up in the clearest light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUltra-fine abrasives clear holograms and compound marring completely.\u003c\/strong\u003e Q²M Polish runs very finely graded abrasives that only take the last, finest defects from the correction step – without removing any meaningful amount of clear coat. The holograms from the compound stage are gone for good.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulls the maximum depth of gloss out – on deep black and other dark paints too.\u003c\/strong\u003e Gloss is where Q²M Polish parts ways with a cutting polish: on dark paint you get a deep, wet-mirror shine – the optical quality that separates professional detailing from a weekend job.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free result, ready to coat straight away.\u003c\/strong\u003e After the last finishing pass, Q²M Polish leaves paint that is free of holograms – the ideal base for a ceramic coating. A coating amplifies whatever the paint is doing optically, so hologram-free paint looks dramatically better under coating.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Q²M Polish on a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003ePolish pad\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-finish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003eFinish pad\u003c\/a\u003e on the DA at a medium speed setting (5–6). After the pass, check your work under LED light or in raking light – holograms are hard to spot in direct sunlight. Only once the paint is hologram-free do you wipe down with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e and lay the coating on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ²M Polish as a one-step polish on lightly marred paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eQ²M Polish is not just the finishing stage after a compound – you can also run it as a one-step polish on paint with light defects. If the paint only shows fine wash marks, light swirls and minimal holograms (no deep scratches), Q²M Polish clears them in a single pass and brings the gloss up right away. That saves you a polishing step and takes off less clear coat than going in with a compound. How to decide: always do a test spot and check whether Q²M Polish clears the defects completely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe GYEON polishing kit: Polish as the end of the sequence\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the full GYEON polishing kit, Q²M Polish takes the last slot: \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-plus-redefined-heavy-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound+\u003c\/a\u003e (heavy defects) → \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound\u003c\/a\u003e (medium defects) → Q²M Polish (finishing and high gloss). Each stage sets the surface up for the next one. And Q²M Polish is not the step you skip – it is the one that turns “polished well” into “professionally finished”.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ²M Polish for one-step detailing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars that are in good shape, Q²M Polish is the obvious call for one-step detailing: no compound needed, no multi-stage session. One pass with Q²M Polish on a Polish pad – result: minimal correction, maximum gloss, ready for the coating. On regularly maintained cars that already wear a ceramic coating (the yearly refresh polish, no deep defects) Q²M Polish is the ideal pick: one step, barely any clear coat taken off, ready to coat immediately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice: Q²M Polish for the final gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q²M Polish is the finishing product no serious paint job can do without. Without a finishing polish the work is not finished – holograms and compound marring stay visible and get amplified under the coating. As a complete polishing package we would grab: Q²M Polish + \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003ePolish pad\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-finish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003eFinish pad\u003c\/a\u003e, together with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e before the coating and \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2-mohs-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung-lack\"\u003eQ² Mohs EVO\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2-one-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung-lack\"\u003eQ² One EVO\u003c\/a\u003e to finish.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57335242654031,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MPOL1000","price":54.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"4 fl. oz.","offer_id":57335238721871,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MPOL120","price":12.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur.png?v=1774647269"},{"product_id":"zvizzer-fc-2000-fine-cut-gelb-finish-politur","title":"FC 2000 \"Fine Cut\" finishing polish (Yellow)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eClear holograms and fine swirls after sanding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the ZviZZer FC 2000 Fine Cut? A water-based finishing polish that clears holograms, halos and fine swirls after a sanding step and builds up deep gloss. It's not a heavy cutter for deep scratches and won't replace a cutting compound.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eZviZZer FC 2000 Fine Cut\u003c\/strong\u003e is a water-based finishing polish from ZviZZer, marked Yellow in the five-stage colour system. Its self-breaking aluminium-oxide abrasive refines as you polish and pulls out the holograms and sanding marks a previous cutting compound leaves behind. It's silicone- and solvent-free, works on all paints including scratch-resistant and fresh clearcoats, and is made in Germany.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free gloss as the last step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FC 2000 clears the fine swirls and halos left in the paint after cutting and the machine, and builds deep gloss. You finish one side of a daily driver in about 20 to 30 minutes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes for two depths of work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 250 ml bottle covers roughly 6 to 10 finishing passes on a mid-size car, the 750 ml bottle the full season. A pea-sized drop covers one pad face.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSoft yellow pad for maximum gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FC 2000 is matched to a soft pad with a slightly cutting character. It runs best on the dual-action at about 1,000 to 1,600 rpm and medium pressure, without putting fresh sanding marks back in.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake with a finishing polish is treating it like a cutting compound and trying to chase scratches out with it. The FC 2000 barely cuts, it refines. If you can feel the defect with your fingernail, you hit it with a cutting compound first and lay the FC 2000 on top only after that. On a black 2026 paint, a single finishing pass at about 1,600 rpm got us a mirror-flat gloss where the attempt without sanding first only pushed the matte haze around.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSpread at 1,000 work it at 1,600 to high gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou spread the FC 2000 pea-sized at about 1,000 rpm across the section, then work it at around 1,600 rpm and medium pressure until the polishing film goes clear and a rich high gloss stands up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt needs an already corrected surface: the paint has been washed, decontaminated and cleared of coarse scratches with a cutting compound. Work in sections of about 40 by 40 centimetres. The soft yellow pad is colour-matched to the FC 2000; a hard foam grade has no place under a finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep the pad clean: knock the polishing dust out after two or three sections or switch to a fresh pad. A clogged pad smears and stops building gloss. Because the FC 2000 is water-based, it flashes off faster above 25 degrees paint temperature, so you work smaller sections rather than more product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHolograms yes deep scratches no\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FC 2000 reliably clears holograms, halos and fine swirls, but for deep scratches you can clearly feel with your fingernail, a finishing polish is the wrong stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts home turf is the last pass: it pulls out exactly the machine marks a strong cutting compound leaves in the paint, and turns a corrected but hazy finish into clear depth. On dark paints, where every sanding mark shows, this finishing step is the difference between clean and mirror-flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits are clear: if deep scratches are in play, go with the stronger \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/zvizzer-hc-4000-heavy-cut-rot-schleifpolitur\"\u003ecutting compound\u003c\/a\u003e first and only then the FC 2000 as the finish. If you want the last percent of depth on very soft or dark paints, lay a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/zvizzer-uc-1000-ultrafine-cut-gruen-finish-politur\"\u003efinishing polish\u003c\/a\u003e of the finest grade on top after the FC 2000. The FC 2000 won't replace a cutting compound and won't pull out scratches it doesn't have the grit for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFor the clean finish not for heavy correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FC 2000 is the right call when you want to set the hologram-free finish after sanding and you're after a result that holds up even on black paint under raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's less suited to two cases: correcting deep scratches, where the cut isn't there, and quick one-step prep, for which a one-step polish is the better choice. If you regularly need both, you're better off with the staged ZviZZer system of \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/politur\"\u003ecutting and finishing polish\u003c\/a\u003e than with a single stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the workflow, the sealant comes after the finish. Because the FC 2000 works silicone- and solvent-free, it hides nothing, so you don't have to specially de-oil the paint before coating; a splash of isopropanol for a check is enough. This wipe-down is exactly what most people skip, and that's why a supposedly perfect gloss suddenly shows holograms again after the first wash, the ones the polishing oil was only covering up.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"ZviZZer","offers":[{"title":"250 ml \/ Einzeln","offer_id":57867546886479,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00025010FC","price":17.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"750 ml \/ Einzeln","offer_id":57867546919247,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00075010FC","price":45.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml \/ 3er-Set","offer_id":57882248184143,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00025010FC_3","price":53.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"250 ml \/ 10er-Set","offer_id":57882248216911,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00025010FC_10","price":179.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"750 ml \/ 3er-Set","offer_id":57882248249679,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00075010FC_3","price":137.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"750 ml \/ 10er-Set","offer_id":57882248282447,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00075010FC_10","price":459.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/zvizzer-fc-2000-fine-cut-gelb-finish-politur.png?v=1781632341"},{"product_id":"zvizzer-uc-1000-ultrafine-cut-gruen-finish-politur","title":"UC 1000 \"Ultrafine Cut\" finishing polish (Green)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eRemove swirls and holograms and seal the paint\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the ZviZZer UC 1000 Ultrafine Cut? A water-based finishing polish with the finest aluminium-oxide grain and a built-in sealant that removes the finest swirls and holograms and protects the paint for months in the same pass. Not for heavy correction of deep scratches and not as a stand-alone polish on heavily weathered paint.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eZviZZer UC 1000 Ultrafine Cut\u003c\/strong\u003e is a water-based finishing polish from ZviZZer, marked Green in the five-step colour system and therefore the finest ultra-fine stage. Its finest, homogeneous aluminium-oxide grain polishes out completely clear, while an included ceramic emulsion seals the paint at the same time. That folds the last bit of depth and months of protection into one pass. It's silicone- and solvent-free and made in Germany.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss and sealant in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UC 1000 removes the finest swirls and holograms and lays down a ceramic sealant in the same pass that, per the manufacturer, protects the paint for months. You save the otherwise separate sealing step after polishing, and you finish one side of the car in about 20 minutes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe finest grain for that last bit of depth.\u003c\/strong\u003e Its latest-generation homogeneous aluminium-oxide grain works so fine that you get a streak-free wetlook without laying down new micro-scratches. A pea-sized amount covers one pad face, and the 250 ml bottle is good for around 8 to 10 finishing passes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for dark and soft paints.\u003c\/strong\u003e On dark black or soft Japanese clearcoat, where every hologram haze shows up straight away, the UC 1000 really shows its strength. It's tuned for all paints, including scratch-resistant ones as well as fresh and cured paint, and it works water-based without silicone or solvents.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake with a finishing polish that seals is to wipe down with a degreaser afterwards. If you go over the paint with isopropanol after the UC 1000, you wipe the fresh ceramic layer right back off and the months of protection are gone. Work the polish out on a very soft green pad at low speed and wipe the residue off with a dry microfibre towel only. On a black 2026 paint, one pass left a mirror-smooth wetlook.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWork it out on a soft green pad at low speed\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou spread the UC 1000 out pea-sized at around 1,000 rpm, then work it out at about 1,600 rpm with light pressure until a clear, deep gloss stands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe key is a very soft finishing pad. The colour-matched green ultra-soft pad brings the fine grain into play without creating cut of its own. A harder pad would disturb the sealing effect and leave fine holograms behind. Work in sections of about 40 by 40 centimetres, overlap each pass by half and keep the pad moving at all times.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe prerequisite is clean, already-corrected paint: washed, decontaminated and free of coarser defects. The UC 1000 is the last step, not the first. Residue of wax or polishing oil from an earlier pass otherwise settles into the pad and disturbs the sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhich pad suits which polish is one of the most common questions before the first pass. For the UC 1000 the rule is: the softer, the better. A green ultra-soft pad or a fine microfibre finishing pad brings the grain out cleanly. Foam pads with a cut structure belong to the coarser stages, not the finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe amount of product matters: because the UC 1000 seals on its own, it lives on little product and clean break-down technique. Three squirts on the pad create heat and a smearing film that lays the ceramic component down unevenly. A pea-sized amount per section is enough, and after two to three sections you tap the pad out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBelow 15 degrees paint temperature the sealant works more sluggishly and the polishing film breaks open later. Then a touch more speed helps rather than more product. In direct sun, on the other hand, you wait until the panel is in the shade and hand-warm, otherwise the polish dries on before it's worked out clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCheck the result in the right light. An LED spot light at an angle to the paint shows swirls and holograms clearly, while daylight hides them. Pull the panel down with a dry towel to check, never with isopropanol, and only then judge whether a second, light pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFinest swirls yes, deep scratches no\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe UC 1000 removes the finest swirls, holograms and the typical spider-web scratches under artificial light completely. With deep scratches, though, the kind you clearly feel with a fingernail, it lacks the bite.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts core area is the last percent: the step from already well-polished paint to a flawless concours mirror. On dark paint that still shows a fine haze after a medium polish, it pulls out exactly the leftover depth that makes a show-car finish, and protects the result at once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe homogeneous grain is the reason for this clean finish. Unlike a mixed abrasive grain, it doesn't break abruptly but works itself out evenly. That way the UC 1000 leaves no micro-scratches of its own even on sensitive, soft clearcoat, which is half the battle with a fine finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits are clearly tiered. When deep scratches sit in the paint, you start with the strong \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/zvizzer-hc-4000-heavy-cut-rot-schleifpolitur\"\u003ecutting compound\u003c\/a\u003e, go over the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/zvizzer-fc-2000-fine-cut-gelb-finish-politur\"\u003eFC 2000 Fine Cut\u003c\/a\u003e as an intermediate stage and only add the UC 1000 on top at the end. On heavily weathered, matte paint a pure finishing polish on its own is out of place, because it lacks the correction power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA second limit concerns the protection itself: the built-in sealant lasts months per the manufacturer, but doesn't replace a full ceramic coating with a multi-year lifespan. If you want maximum durability, you use the UC 1000 for the gloss and lay a dedicated coating on top afterwards, once the polish layer has cured after a few hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA question that reaches us often is whether a fine polish works as a pure final polish. With the UC 1000 that's exactly the point: it's meant as a finishing close, not as a workhorse for correction. Use it as your only polish and you do get gloss and protection, but no defect removal beyond the finest swirls.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFor the show-car polisher, not for heavy correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe UC 1000 is the right call when you're after that last bit of gloss and want to protect the paint in one go, instead of applying a separate sealant after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's less suited to two cases: heavy correction of neglected paint, where the bite is missing, and the quick single-step prep of a daily driver, for which a one-step polish is the more honest choice. A customer told us, in so many words, that she first misread the UC 1000 as an all-round polish; it only plays its strength as a finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEconomically the UC 1000 pays off above all for anyone who polishes in multiple stages anyway. The 250 ml bottle covers around 8 to 10 finishing passes, the 750 ml bottle is meant for season-long continuous use. If you both correct and finish on a regular basis, you're better off with the graded ZviZZer system from Pre Cut to Ultra Fine than with a single polish. You'll find the matching stages in our \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/politur\"\u003epolishes\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the workflow the UC 1000 sits right at the back and replaces the separate sealant for many people. If you want even more durability, you let the polish layer cure for a few hours first and then lay a full ceramic coating on top. Applying both right after one another doesn't work, because the coating doesn't bond cleanly to the still-fresh sealing layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe one point hardly anyone watches: because the UC 1000 seals on its own, it's the only step after which you don't touch the paint again. Always lay it on as the very last layer and plan no wash and no wax straight afterwards, otherwise you strip the fresh ceramic layer off again before it has cured. It's exactly this order-of-steps mistake that explains why some people miss the deep gloss again after the first wash, even though the polishing worked flawlessly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"ZviZZer","offers":[{"title":"250 ml \/ Einzeln","offer_id":57867580047695,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00025010UC","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"750 ml \/ Einzeln","offer_id":57867580080463,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00075010UC","price":53.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml \/ 3er-Set","offer_id":57882253033807,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00025010UC_3","price":62.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml \/ 10er-Set","offer_id":57882253066575,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00025010UC_10","price":209.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"750 ml \/ 3er-Set","offer_id":57882253099343,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00075010UC_3","price":161.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"750 ml \/ 10er-Set","offer_id":57882253132111,"sku":"D1-ZVIZZER-ST00075010UC_10","price":539.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/zvizzer-uc-1000-ultrafine-cut-gruen-finish-politur.png?v=1781632403"},{"product_id":"innovacar-p1-polish-up-finish-politur","title":"\"P1\" Polish Up Finishing Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eSwirls, Hologramme und Mikrokratzer restlos ausräumen\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e„P1\" Polish Up von Innovacar ist eine besonders feine, silikonfreie Finish-Politur für den letzten Schliff. Sie entfernt Mikrokratzer, Swirls und Hologramme und bringt Glanz und Farbtiefe voll heraus. Für tiefe Kratzer zu fein — die brauchen erst eine Schleifpaste, „P1\" setzt danach das Finish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInnovacar „P1\" Polish Up\u003c\/strong\u003e ist die Finish-Politur der Serie — extrem fein abgestimmt für die letzten Schritte der Lackaufbereitung. Sie beseitigt Mikrokratzer, Swirls und Hologramme, also genau die feinen Defekte, die das Licht unsauber brechen und den Lack stumpf wirken lassen. Nach einem Schleif- oder One-Step-Gang holt „P1\" die volle Tiefe und den Spiegelglanz zurück, ohne neue Schleifstruktur einzubringen. Silikonfrei, damit der Glanz echt ist und nicht auf Ölen beruht, die beim ersten Regen verschwinden. Heißt für dich: „P1\" ist der Schritt, der aus „sauber\" ein „spiegelt\" macht.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeinstes Korn für hologrammfreies Finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e Entfernt die Mikrostruktur, die gröbere Polituren hinterlassen — besonders auf schwarzem und dunklem Lack der entscheidende Unterschied. Praktisch: der Lack wirkt nass, nicht nur sauber.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximale Tiefe und Farbe.\u003c\/strong\u003e „P1\" bringt die Farbtiefe voll zur Geltung, statt sie unter Schleiern zu verstecken. Heißt für dich: mehr Spiegelung, mehr Kontrast.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilikonfrei — coating-ready.\u003c\/strong\u003e Kein Öl-Rückstand, der eine Versiegelung stört. Im Alltag: direkt im Anschluss versiegelbar.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePraxistipp von Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e „P1\" spielt seine Stärke mit weichem Finish-Pad und moderater Drehzahl aus — wir arbeiten in der Halle mit rund 1.000–1.500 U\/min und lassen die Politur sauber ausarbeiten, bis sie fast transparent ist. Der häufigste Fehler: zu wenig Zeit. Wer „P1\" zu früh abnimmt, lässt Hologramme stehen, die erst später im Sonnenlicht auffallen. Und immer mit „D2\" Check gegenprüfen — auf poliertem Lack lügt das Auge, ein entfetteter Kontrollblick zeigt die Wahrheit.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eAnwendung: Weiches Pad, sauber ausarbeiten\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGib \u003cstrong\u003e„P1\"\u003c\/strong\u003e auf ein weiches Finish-Pad und arbeite es mit 1.000–1.800 U\/min in überlappenden Bahnen ein, bis die Politur klar wird. Rückstände mit einem frischen, weichen Mikrofasertuch wie dem \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/innovacar-micron-buffing-poliertuch\"\u003e„Micron Buffing\"\u003c\/a\u003e abnehmen und mit \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/innovacar-d2-check-entfetter-kontrollspray\"\u003e„D2\" Check\u003c\/a\u003e gegenprüfen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGrenzen: Kein Ersatz für den Schliff\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e„P1\" ist bewusst fein — tiefe Kratzer und starke Oxidation holt sie nicht raus. Dafür arbeitest du zuerst mit \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/innovacar-f1-force-one-schleifpaste\"\u003e„F1\" Force One\u003c\/a\u003e oder der One-Step-Politur \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/innovacar-a1-all-in-one-schleifpolitur\"\u003e„A1\" All in One\u003c\/a\u003e vor und finishst dann mit „P1\".\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDanach schützen und auffrischen\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDie spiegelnde Fläche mit \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/innovacar-sc1-sealant-spruehversiegelung\"\u003e„SC1\" Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e oder \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/innovacar-h2o-coat-nassversiegelung\"\u003e„H2O\" Coat\u003c\/a\u003e versiegeln; zwischendurch hält der \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/innovacar-w1-quick-detailer-schnellreiniger\"\u003e„W1\" Quick Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e den Glanz frisch.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"INNOVACAR","offers":[{"title":"500 g","offer_id":58163104645455,"sku":"D1-INC-79187","price":36.1,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/P1POLISHUP.jpg?v=1783460399"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.be\/en\/collections\/hochglanzpolituren-finish.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}